
Tatting of To-day 

Published by 

The Ladies' World 

Edited by Louise S. Hauck 

W^ho will be glad to answer any letters relating to these 
designs, if a stamped, self-addressed envelope is enclosed 

Price 10 Cents 



The McClure Publications, Inc., 251 Fourth Avenue, New York 



Copyrighl, 1915, by McClure Pub.. In 



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Page 3 



The Art of Making Tatting 

By Louise S. Hauck 
Who tvill be glad to answer questions if you are puzzled 



IN order to learn easily and quickly, and without 
trying orte's patience too much, in learning, how to 
make tatting, it will be wise to read the follow- 
ing thoughtfully and carefully. The knots of which 
the tatting is made consist of two stitches. These 
stitches form little loops through which the shuttle 
thread must run freely so as not to confine it. You 
will see in starting the work the consistency of this 
need. Here is a fact which must be absolutely re- 
membered in trying to learn. That the stitches are 
made with the left-hand thread and not with the 
shuttle thread. The shuttle is where the supply 
comes from. 



around the left-hand fingers, the shuttle in the right 
hand with the thread at the right of the shuttle, 
holding out the thread of the shuttle with the middle 
finger of the right hand. 

Now you will make the first stitch of the knot. 
Put the shuttle down in the ring against the space 
thread of the left hand, let the thread pass up be- 
tween the forefinger and shuttle, then over the shuttle 
and down between the shuttle and thumb. Now 
comes the knack of making the first little loop. 

Give the shuttle thread a little jerk, at the same 
time bending the left-hand fingers a little, holding 
the shuttle thread firmly; ,you will see the little loop 





In position for first stitch 



First half of first knot 





In position for second stitch 



Completed knot of under and over stitches 



How to hold the left-hand thread and shuttle 

TAKE the end of the thread between the forefinger 
and thumb, form a ring around the left hand, 
spreading out the rest of the fingers a little. You 
will now have a space between the forefinger and 
middle finger. In this space all the stitches are 
made that are used when working with one thread. 
Now take the shuttle between the forefinger and 
thumb of the right hand, with the thread at the 
right of the shuttle. Have the thread between the 
left hand and the shuttle about six inches long. If 
you have the thread too long it will bother you. be- 
cause you will have to hold the thread out with the 
middle flngei of the right hand. Now here i? the 
position for the first stitch. A ring of the thread 



will immediately fall in place. The loop will have 
the shuttle thread running through it, the left-hand 
thread will be over the loop, the end thread will then 
be underneath. The little loop is now brought back 
to the forefinger and thumb of the left hand by 
opening the fingers of the left hand. You will see 
that the loop will slip back easily enough. Hold the 
first stitch firmly between the forefinger and thumb 
of the left hand. All the knots are gently held be- 
tween the forefinger and thumb as you work. 

The second position for holding the shuttle in mak- 
ing the second stitch is thus: Allow a loop to form 
in the ring of the left-hand thread, and pass the 
space thread up between the thumb and shuttle, 
over the shuttle and down between the shuttle and 
forefinger; give the shuttle thread a little jerk; at the 



Page U 



same time close the left-hand fingers, hold the shuttle 
thread firmly and the loop will at once fall in place. 
Now look at this stitch carefully. (Of course you 
will understand that the shuttle must be worked in 
the loop you have formed with the shuttle thread.) 
You will see that the shuttle thread runs through 
the little loop, and the left-hand thread will be under- 
neath the little loop. Now open the fingers of the 
left hand and let the stitch come close to the first 
one made and you will have one complete knot. All 
tatting, no matter how elaborate, is made of these 
knots, whether it be made of one or two threads. 
A careful study of these directions will give you a 
clear understanding of how to make the tatting shown 
in the following pages. 

How to make the Picot 

WHEN you make the first stitch of the knot, do 
not bring the stitch close to the last knot made, 
but leave a space long or short as directed, then 
make the second stitch and bring that close to the 



right size as you work. The little finger will come 
in play and do the work for you. In this way: You 
will learn that by giving the thread a jerk with the 
little finger it will make the ring on the left hand 
larger and so, without your knowing it, this will take 
place. All the fingers of the left hand will come in 
play as you go on with the work, and by degrees you 
will learn to work so that you will be able to talk, too. 

How to work with two threads 

WHEN you work with two threads, you generally 
begin with a ring. When you are winding the 
shuttle to work with two threads, you will then not 
have need to tie the ends. When your shuttle gives 
out and it needs re-winding, leave the end quite long 
so as to tie the end of the shuttle thread to it. This 
is done with a square knot. 

To make a square knot 

TIE the ends close to the work. Lay the left-hand 
thread over that of the right, put the left-hand 




-One complete knot open 2—Completi 

and one picot before being drawn up 



knot closed 3 — Six knots 
J, — One complete ring 



first and bring the knot with the picot close to those 
already made. 

When you find that the hand thread is getting 
small, just give the thread of the left hand a pull 
downward from the forefinger and thumb. As you 
go on with the work you will also find that it is best 
to go gently, even if you can work fast. It is not 
necessary to draw the thread hard in working. You 
will find that the knots will look more even if you do 
not pull your work too hard. It is best to give the 
rings a second pull so that they will not open later 
on, as you work. It is quite impossible to close the 
ring properly in the first attempt. You will have to 
pull the thread too hard and are liable to break the 
shuttle thread if you attempt to close the ring 
entirely with the first attempt. By-and-bye you 
will learn unconsciously to keep your ring just the 



thread under the thread with the left hand, take the 
left-hand thread in your left hand, lay the right-hand 
thread over it, pass the left-hand end through the 
ring you have formed, take hold of the end with the 
right hand and draw the knot so that you can have a 
good look at it. You will have a loop within a loop. 
Draw this knot just as close to your work as possible, 
and draw both ends at once so as to make a neat 
knot. Now cut off the ends. 

After you have made the ring that precedes the 
work on the second thread (work made with the 
spool thread is called a bar), if the bar has only a 
few knots, wind the spool thread, holding it the same 
as the shuttle thread, over the outstretched fingers 
of the left hand and wind it a number of times around 
the little finger to hold it firm. When you need to 
make, for example, a bar with five picots, it is best 



DEC II 1915 



Page 5 



to first wind the spool thread over the middle finger, 
then over the little. If your directions call for a bar 
of seven picots, then you may wind the spool thread 
around the middle finger, then the third finger, and 
lastly around the little finger. This will prevent you 
from unwinding the thread around the little finger 
and rewinding in order to give you enough thread to 



complete the bar. Care must be taken when work- 
ing with two threads so that you turn your work 
properly, or you will make the bar in the wrong 
place. For example, if you are going to make a 
bar with a ring at either end, you will have to 
turn your work up or down as the case may require. 
This you will have to determine. 



Directions for Making Ring Tatting 



SIX knots, one picot. 
Six knots, one picot, 
six knots, one picot, six 
knots. Draw shuttle 
thread up tightly so as 
to form a single perfect 
ring. Now, to make 
the second ring: 

No. 3 — Begin by leav- 
ing a little space from the first ring. Six knots. 
With a crochet hook, or a good-sized pin, pull the 
hand thread through the last picot of the ring just 
made, and put the shuttle through this loop and 
draw the thread close to the six knots previously 
made. Thus continue to make rings for the plain 




design of tatting. The 
ring with three picots in 
the center is made with- 
out a knot between each 
picot. 

No. U — The ring with 
five picots is made begin- 
ning with five knots, 
one picot, five knots, 
three picots with knot between each picot, five knots, 
one picot, five knots, close. 

No. 5 — Three knots, one picot, three knots, five 
picots, one knot between each picot, three knots, one 
picot, three knots, close, three knots. Join to first 
picot of ring just completed and proceed to finish ring. 



No. 5 



Simple Edges and Insertions for Handkerchiefs, Infants' Garments and Underwear 



No. 6— Edge— Four 
knots between each 
picot in the small 
rings, eight knots 
between the single 
picots and one knot 
between each of the 
five picots, turn and 
repeat the large ring, 
joining at the first 
picot. The insertion 
isthelargeringthrough whichyoucanrun ribbon. Sew 
on the garment as it is, or crochet a single stitch in each 
of the five picots with five in chain between the rings. 




-E'lyt- and Insert 



No. 7 — Insertion — 
Four knots, one pi- 
cot, four knots, three 
picots with one knot 
between each picot, 
four knots, one picot, 
four knots, close. 
Turn, repeat the ring. 
Turn, four knots, 
join to picot four 
knots, three picots 
with one knot between each picot, turn. Proceed 
working these rings, joining each to the preceding 
one after making the first four knots of each ring. 



iVo. 7- 



■ leaf 



No. 8 — Cloi'er Leaf — Six knots between each of the 
picots. The rings must be made close together. 





No. 9 — Insertion with two 
threads 



No. 9 — Insertion — Four knots between each picot 
in the rings — six knots in the connecting bars. 




No. 10 — Clover leaf insertion 
and edge, with two threads 



No. 10 — Clovef leaf insertion arid edge iviih two 
threads — Begin with a small ring. Four knots, one 
picot, four knots, five picots with one knot between 
each picot, four knots, one picot, draw together. 
With the spool thread work six knots, then make the 
second ring like the first. Then the bar with six knots. 
Proceed to make the clover leaf given before with six 
knots, one picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, one 
picot, six knots, one picot, six knots, close and repeat 
three times to make three rings of leaf. Repeat bar 
with six knots, then two small rings, then a clover leaf. 



No. 11 
foi 



Edge and beadi, 
underwear 




No. 11 — Edge and insertion. Two threads — Ring: 
Six knots one picot, four knots one picot, one knot 
one picot, one knot one picot, one knot one picot, four 
knots one picot, six knots, close ring. With the spool 
thread: Eight knots, one picot, eight knots. With 
the shuttle: Six knots, join to the first picot toward 
you at the left and proceed to work like the first 
ring. Then proceed to work on the spool thread 
as the preceding bar. There are six chain cro- 
cheted between each picot in the centers of each 
bar. 



Page 6 




An effective little beading and edge 

ivhich the beginner can make for 

underwear and infants^ gannents 

EdCe No. 12— Two threads 

WITH the shuttle thread make three knots, one 
picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, three 
picots, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, 
three knots, close. With the spool thread: Five knots, 
one picot, five knots, to make the bar. With the 
shuttle: Three knots, join in the second picot, three 
knots, three picots, three knots, one picot, three knots, 
close. With the spool thread: Five knots, one picot, 
five knots. With the shuttle: Three knots, one 
picot, three knots, join; three knots, three picots, 
three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three 
knots, close. Thus proceed, repeating the bars and 
rings. The crocheted edge for sewing onto the fab- 
ric is made by chaining six stitches between each 
picot on the bars. 

Made of No. 100 thread this will be very pretty for 
use on sheer materials, handkerchiefs and neckwear; 
while made from No. 60 crochet cotton it will be ap- 
propriate for underwear and doilies. Heavy linen thread 
is used for making tatting for trimming luncheon- 
sets, runners, pillow-covers and heavy linen covers. 




A charming edge for underwear, which may 

also be developed in heavy linen colored thread 

for finishing runners and luncheon sets 

Clover Edge No. 13~Two threads 

WITH the shuttle thread make five knots, one 
picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, one 
picot, three knots, one picot, five knots, close. With 
the spool thread: One knot, seven picots, with one 
knot between each picot, one knot. With the shut- 
tle make clover leaf: Five knots, one picot, three 
knots, join picot to the last picot of ring (that is, the 
last one made), three knots, one picot, three knots, 
one picot, three knots, close. Five knots, join, three 
knots, five picots with one knot between each picot, 
three knots, one picot, five knots; close. Five knots, 
join, three knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, 
three knots, one picot, five knots; close. Now take 
the spool thread and pass it through the first leaf 
of the clover and fiasten the three leaves close to- 
gether. With the spool thread: One knot, seven 
picots, with one knot between each picot, then one 
knot. With the shuttle: Five knots, join to the 
second picot of clover, three knots, one picot, three 
knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, five knots. 
Then proceed to repeat the bar with the seven picots, 
and then the clover. 



No. 14— Double Clover Edge. 
Ttvo threads 

WITH the shuttle: Five knots, 
one picot, eight knots, one 
picot, eight knots, one picot, five 
knots, close. Five knots, making 
the first stitch of the knot just as 
close to the ring, just made, as it 
is possible to get it. Join. Eight 
knots, one picot, eight knots, one 
picot, five knots, close. Make an- 
other ring like the two preceding ones. If the clover 
leaf does not come very close together at the base of 
the three rings, slip the spool thread through the first 
leaf and fasten the rings together. Turn, five knots, 
join, in the picot of the first leaf made, five knots, 
three picots with one knot between each picot, five 
knots, one picot, five knots, close. With the spool 
thread: With a crochet needle draw the spool thread 
through the two picots (that is, the picot in the last 
leaf made, and the picot in the third leaf), thus 
bringing the spool thread in the proper place to begin 
the bar. Now with the spool thread make eight 
knots, one picot, eight knots, and draw them close to 






Used either as an insertion or ea 
and beading, this clover border will 
effective on underivear 



the double clover. Proceed to 
make the double clover and the 
bar until you have made what you 
need. Then you will observe that 
there is a difference in the work. 
The clover coming over the bar 
is the right side of the work. 
Now the next thing to do is to 
make the ring and bar at the top 
of the clover. Put the end of 
the shuttle thread through the 
picot (that is, in the ring where there is but one 
picot), and tie the spool thread to it. Draw the knot 
tight and cut close. Now take the work in hand so that 
the leaf with the three picots points from you, and with 
the spool thread make ten knots. Turn your work, 
and with the shuttle make ten knots and join between 
the two leaves where there is already a join, and then 
make ten more knots and close. With the spool 
thread: Ten knots, join in the picot at top of leaf and 
make ten more knots, then draw the knots close to the 
ring and proceed to work as directed until you have 
reached the end of your work. Now crochet seven 
in chain between each join in the bar and in the ring. 




Tatting is so serviceable that it makes 

practical as well as pretty beading 

and edge for lingerie 



THREE knots between each picot of the small ring. 
Nine knots in the bar. The large ring has three 
knots, one picot, three knots, three picots, three knots. 



one picot, three knots; close. To make the second large 
ring: Three knots, join, three knots, nine picots, three 
knots, one picot, three knots. Thus proceed as directed. 



Page 7 



SIX knots, one picot, four knots 
and three picots with one knot 
between each picot, four knots, 
one picot, six knots, close ring. 
With the spool thread: Six knots, 
three picots with two knots be- 
tween each, six knots. The second 
ring is made like the preceding 
one and joined at the first picot 
at the left. Continue repeating 
with spool thread. The edge is 
made by crocheting two chain 
between the rings, and one chain 
between each one of the three 
picots. 

To hem the doily: Be sure you 
cut a perfect circle. Place a 
plate, tumbler, or anything that 
is perfectly round, on a piece of 
linen and mark carefully around 
the edge of the article used, and cut exactly on the 
marked line. You can easily destroy the circle if 
you are not careful in cutting out the disk. After 




A set of finger -hold or bread- and-hutter 
plate doilies of fine linen finished with a 
simple tatted edge will be acceptable to 
any housekeeper who loves dainty linens 



you are sure that your circle is 
perfect, turn down the edge as 
evenly and as little as possible, 
and then with a fine needle and 
thread run on the wrong side of 
the circle with small stitches on 
the right side. When you come 
to the starting point leave end 
of the thread with which you 
have been running and pull up 
slightly and evenly. Now turn 
down the hem as evenly as pos- 
sible and hem with very small 
stitches. You will be surprised 
how easy it will be to hem around 
a circle. This method holds good 
with anything that needs to be 
hemmed where the outer edge is 
wider than the inner. End the 
tatting for the doily with the spool 
thread. You may then sew the 
four ends together and cut them 
off after you have made sure that the thread is 
properly fastened. Any other edge may be used in 
the same way. 



No. 17-Edge. With two threads 

WITH the shuttle: Fourknots, 
one picot, one knot, one 
picot, four knots, three picots 
with one knot between each picot, 
four knots, one picot, one knot, 
one picot, fourknots; close. With 
the spool thread: Seven picots 
with one knot between each picot. 
With the shuttle: Seven knots, 
join in the first picot of ring. One 
knot, join in the second picot, 
four knots, three picots with one knot between each 
picot, fourknots, one picot, one knot, one picot, seven 
knots; close. With the spool thread: Seven picots with 




Edge for underwear, doilies, luncheon sets 
or rompers 



one knot between each picot. With 
the shuttle: Four knots, join, 
one knot, join, four knots, three 
picots with one knot between each 
picot, one picot, one knot, one 
picot, four knots; close. With the 
spool thread: Four knots. With 
the shuttle repeat the first ring 
joining in the two picots, and pro- 
ceed to work as directed. 

Beginning with the first ring, 
crochet one single stitch in each 
of the picots, three in chain between. This makes 
a very nice finish and looks pretty when it is put 
on the garment. 




Insertion or Edge No. 1 





Edge No. 2 



Insertion No. 2. Edge is made of single row 



Edge No. 1 

TWO threads. No. 30 thread was used for making 
this. Wind the shuttle without breaking your 
thread. Ring, seven double knots, picot, seven double 
knots, draw up with spool thread. Chain, seven 
double knots, picot, seven double knots. Push the 
stitches closely with the shuttle thread. Ring, seven 
double knots, join to picot of first ring. Continue 
until your four rings are all joined in the first picot. 
Then chain five double knots, picot, two double knots, 
picot, two double knots, picot. ' five double knots. 
Begin at first ring seven double knots, picot. seven 
double knots, draw up chain, seven double knots and 
join to picot of chain made in first half wheel. 

Insertion — Ring seven double knots, picot, seven 
double knots. Draw up chain, seven double knots, 
picot, seven double knots and so on until four rings 



are joined together. Then close to the last ring. 
Seven double knots, picot, seven double knots, chain, 
seven double knots, picot, seven double knots and so 
on until the required length is reached. 



and Edge No. 2 

TWO threads. Wind the shuttle without break- 
ing thread. 

Edge — Ring, five double knots, picot, five double 
knots, picot, ten double knots. Draw up, using spool 
thread and chain fourteen double knots. Fasten in 
last picot in ring and so on until the desired length is 
reached. 

Insertion — Same as edge except in chain make seven 
double knots, picot, seven double knots and join to the 
last picot in ring until the desired length is reached. 
Then go back on the chain side and join in each picot. 



Page 8 



Showing Tatting Used on Collar 



^^^^^i^S^P^^^^^^^^^^x^ 





HERE is a novel 
idea, and a practi- 
cal one as well. 
One linen handkerchief, 
measuring fourteen 
inches square; one spool 
of white sewing cotton 
No. 12; about quarter of 
a spool of No. 60 crochet 
thread; a patent steel 
crochet hook No. 10, and 

four strands of white or colored mercerized embroid- 
ery cotton will be needed to make this collar. 

To make the tatting 

FILL the shuttle with the No. 12 cotton— two 
double knots, picot, until there are eight picots 
and two double knots; draw it up close; allow quarter 
inch of cotton; three double knots, picot; two double 
knots, picot; two double knots, picot; two double 
knots, join through seventh picot of first ring, two 
double knots, picot; two double knots, picot; three 
double knots; draw up tightly; as close to it as pos- 
sible, three double knots. Join through last picot of 
ring just made, two double knots, picot, until there 
are six picots; three double knots, draw up tightly; 
close to last to it make a ring like the first of these 
three, which forms a clover leaf; continue for re- 
quired length. 



ng and crochet coiribined in an edge for neckwear and 
under^vear, bibs and infants* dresses 



To crochet the edge 

TIE on crochet cotton 
at first single wheel, 
chain eight, one single 
through first picot; chain 
four, one treble through 
closing of clover leaf; 
chain three, one single 
through middle picot: 
chain four, one double 
through small wheel; 
chain four, one single through second picot of clover 
leaf; same to end. 

Second row — Chain three, one double over chain of 
first row; chain two, two doubles over next chain; 
chain two, two doubles over next chain; same to end; 
break off, and draw thread through last loop. 

Crocheting along the edge of tatting gives a founda- 
tion to sew it on by. Press before using. 

To make the collar, fold the handkerchief exactly in 
half, and cut out the neck. Sew the tatting around 
it, having it full at the corners. Mark a circle around 
a spool in each corner and briar-stitch. Roll the 
collar in a damp cloth, allow it to remain fifteen 
minutes, then press over several thicknesses of 
flannel, wrong side up, until perfectly dry, and it is 
ready to wear. This size is to be worn over a waist. 
These collars may be as plain or as elaborate as time 
and inclination suggest. Tatted motifs may be set in. 



Page 9 



A Night-gow^n Yoke 




Medallion No. 1 



Medallion No. 2 



Ten of each of these motifs required 

MOTIF No. 1, with two threads. With the shuttle 
thread': Twelve knots, one picot, twelve knots, 
close. With the spool thread, seven picots 
with one knot between each picot, beginning the bar 
with two knots and ending it with two knots. Turn 
and with the shuttle, twelve knots, join in picot, twelve 
knots, close. Repeat the bars and ring until you have 
made five rings and five bars. Tie with a square 
knot and cut off the ends. 

Motif No. 2, with two threads. Three knots, one 
picot, five knots, one long picot. three knots, three 
picots with one knot between each picot, three knots, 
one long picot, five knots, one picot, three knots, 
close. Turn and with the spool thread, two knots 
one picot, one knot. Turn and with the shuttle 
three knots, join, five knots, join to the long picot, 
three knots, three picots with one knot between 
each picot, three knots, one long picot, five knots, 
one picot. three knots, close. Turn and with the 
spool thread, two knots, one picot, one knot. Re- 
peat the rings and the little bars with the one picot, 
untiJ you have made eight rings. You finish the 
motif with the small bar. Join the shuttle thread to 
the first ring you made, tie a square knot and cut off 
the ends. 

Large motif for center-front 

Made toith two threads: Five knots, one picot, 
five knots, one picot, ten knots, close. With the spool 
thread make a bar with seven picots with one knot 
between each picot, beginning and ending with two 
knots. All the bars in this yoke are begun and 
ended with two knots. With the shuttle ten knots 
join in second picot of ring, ten knots, close. Turn, 
and with the spool thread make two knots, one picot, 
two knots. With the shuttle, without turning, make 
a ring five knots, one picot, five knots, close. With- 
out turning, with the spool thread make two knots, 
one picot, two knots. Join the spool thread back so 
as to bring the bars and small ring together. With- 
out turning make a bar of seven picots. Turn, with 
the shuttle, five knots, join in the first picot of 
motif No. 1, five knots, one picot, ten knots, close. 
Turn, and with the spool thread make another bar 
of seven picots. Turn, with the shuttle ten knots, 



join to picot in ring, ten knots, close. Turn and re- 
peat the little bar with one picot, and then the small 
ring, and make the bar with one picot. Join the spool 
thread so as to bring the bars close together. With- 
out turning make a bar with three picots with the 
spool thread. Turn, with the shuttle, five knots, 
one picot, five knots, one picot, one knot. Join to cen- 
ter picot of bar in motif, one knot, one picot, five 
knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join, 
five knots, five picots with one knot between each 
picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five 
knots, join, five knots, three picots with one knot 
between each picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, 
close. With the spool thread, make a bar of seven 
picots. Join in the center picot of last made ring. 
Without turning, and with the shuttle, five knots, 
join to first picot in bar at the left, eleven picots, 
with one knot between each picot, five knots, one 
picot, five knots, close. Without turning make a 
bar of five picots with the shuttle, nine knots, seven 
picots, with one knot between each picot, nine knots, 
close. Without turning and with the spool thread 
make a bar of five picots, with the shuttle and without 
turning, five knots, join to first picot of bar at the left, 
five knots, eleven picots with one knot between each 
picot, five knots, close. Without turning, and with 
the spool thread, make a bar of seven picots. Turn 
and with the shuttle, five knots, one picot, five knots. 
one picot, one knot. Join at the base of the ring and 
at the beginning of the bar, one knot, one picot, five 
knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join, 
five knots, one picot, one knot, one picot, one knot, 
join to center picot where there are five picots. Make 
one knot, one picot, one knot, one picot. five knots, 
one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, join, five 
knots, one picot, one knot, join to center picot of bar 
in motif, one knot, one picot, five knots, one picot, 
five knots, close. Turn and with the spool thread, 
make a bar of five picots. Turn and with the shuttle 
three knots, join seven knots, one picot, ten knots, 
close. Turn and with the spool thread, make the bar 
with one picot, small ring and a small bar, join these 
two bars and small ring so that they will come close 
together. Without turning make a bar of seven 
picots. Turn and with the shuttle, ten knots, join, 
five knots join to the first picot at the right of bar in 
motif, five knots, close. Turn and repeat the small 



Page 10 



bars and small ring, and without turning make a bar 
of seven picots. Turn and with the shuttle, ten knots, 
one picot, ten knots, close. Turn and repeat the small 
bars and ring close together as directed before; with- 
out turning make a bar of seven picots. Turn and 
with the shuttle, ten knots, join, five knots, join in 
first picot in bar of motif, five knots, close. Turn 
and with the spool thread make a bar of seven picots. 
Join in the last picot in bar |'of motif and the first 
picot of first ring made at the beginning. 

This completes the top of centerpiece. Tie the two 
threads carefully with the square knot, and cut off" 
the thread. 

Now lay the piece down with the wide side up. At 
the top there are three bars, slip one end of the spool 
thread through the center picot in the first bar in 
motif No. 1 and tie the shuttle thread to it with a 
square knot. Cut off the ends. 

Joining the motifs to center-front 

TAKE the work in your left hand and turn the work 
down so that when you begin to work the picots 
will point up. Make a bar of seven picots. Turn and 
with the shuttle, twelve knots, join to the picot of 
small ring and to the center picot of one of the rings 
in motif number 2, twelve knots, close. Turn and 
with the spool thread make another bar with the 
seven picots, join to the center picot of the next ring 
in motif, repeat the bar and join, in the center picot 
of the next ring of motif, repeat th^ bar. Turn, with 
the shuttle ten knots, and join in the long picot of 
motif, ten knots, close. Without turning make a bar 
of seven picots, join in the first of the three picots, 
in second ring. Turn, five knots, five picots with one 
knot between each picot, five knots, close. Without 
turning, with the spool thread make a bar of five 
knots. Turn and with the shuttle, five knots, one 
picot, five knots, close. Without turning, with the 
spool thread, five knots. Turn, with the shuttle, five 
knots, five picots, with one knot between each picot, 
five knots, close. Without turning and with the 
spool thread make a bar with the seven picots, one 
knot between each, join to the base of ring opposite. 
Without turning, ten knots, join at the base of motif 
No. 1, ten knots, close. Five knots, one picot, five 
knots, close. Turn, make a bar of seven picots, join- 
ing the third picot to the third picot in the bar at the 
left. Then when you have finished the seventh picot 
and ended with the two knots, join in the center picot 
of motif. Repeat the bar and join to first picot of 
the next bar. Repeat the bar and with the shuttle, 
twelve knots, join to center picot of bar of the third 
from the first joining of same bar, three knots, join 
t) the center picot of motif No. 2, twelve knots, 
close, and join to first of the three picots in ring of 
motif No. 2. Make a bar of seven picots, and join at 
long picot of motif — repeat the bar and join in first 
picot of next ring. Repeat the bar. Turn, and with 
the shuttle thread, twelve knots, join to center picot 
of ring at the left, and to the center picot of bar on 
motif No. 1, twelve knots, close. Turn, repeat the 
bar of seven picots, and join to center picot of next 
bar in motif No. 2. Repeat the bar and join in the 
first picot of the next bar of motif. Turn and with 
the shuttle, five knots, join in the third picot of bar, 
five knots, join in the middle of the three picots of 
ring in motif, eight knots, join to the first picot of 
next ring on motif No. 2, five knots, close. Turn, 
with spool thread repeat the bar with seven picots, 
join to the long picot of motif, repeat the bar and join 
in the middle of the three picots of next ring in motif. 
Repeat the bar, join in the last of the three picots, of 
next ring of motif No. 2. Turn, with the shuttle 



thread ten knots, join in the center of the three picots 
of next ring in motif No.2, and in the center picot 
of bar of next motif No. 1, ten knots, close. Turn 
and repeat the bar. Join to the last picot of the bar 
in motif No. 1, which means there will be two picots 
between the ring and join. Repeat the bar and join 
in the center of bar in motif No. 1. Repeat the bar, 
join in the last picot of the same bar, three knots. 
Turn and with the shuttle thread, ten knots, join to 
the center picot of bar and the middle picot of the 
three in ring of next motif No. 2, ten knots, close. 
Turn with the spool thread, repeat the bar and join 
in the long picot. Repeat the bar and join in the 
first picot of the next ring. This leaves three picots 
of the ring free, at the left. Repeat the bar. Turn 
and with the shuttle ten knots, join to the center picot 
of next ring on next motif No. 1. Three knots, join 
to the second picot of bar, ten knots, close. Turn 
with the spool thread, repeat the bar. Join to the 
last picot of bar. Repeat the bar, join to the center 
picot of bar on motif No. 1. Repeat the bar, turn. 
With the shuttle, ten knots, join to the center picot 
of motif No. 1, three knots, join to the center of the 
three picots, to last motif No. 2, ten knots, close. 
Turn, with the spool thread repeat the bar, and join 
in the middle of the three picots of the next ring of 
motif No. 2. Repeat the bar and join to the middle 
of the three picots of the next ring of the motif. 
This brings you to the middle of the back of the yoke. 
Thus continue until you come to the center piece. 

Now you work on the lower edge of center-front 
large motif. Slip the shuttle thread through the last 
picot of the third bar from the bottom of the yoke. 
At the left, just side of the bar with the one picot, 
tie a square knot, and proceed to make the bar with 
the seven picots. Turn and with the shuttle, five 
knots, one picot, five knots, join to the third picot of 
same bar, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. 
Five knots, join, five knots, two picots with one knot 
between each picot, one knot, join to picot of small 
ring, two knots, join to the middle picot of ring in 
motif, two picots with one knot between each picot, 
five knots, one picot, five knots, close, five knots, join, 
five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Turn and with 
the spool thread, repeat the bar and join to the middle 
picot of ring on motif. Cut the thread long enough 
so that you can tie a square knot. 

Next you slip the spool thread through the fourth 
picot of the ring at the left, holding the work so 
that the top is down. This is the ring with the eleven 
picots. Tie the square knot and with the spool thread 
make the bar with the seven picots. Turn and with 
the shuttle, two knots, eleven picots with one knot 
between each picot, two knots, close. Turn and still 
with the shuttle, five knots, one picot, five knots, 
one picot, five knots, close, five knots, join, five 
knots, one picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, 
close. Five knots, join, five knots, five picots, with 
one knot between each picot, five knots, one picot, 
five knots, one picot, five knots, close. Five knots, 
join, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. 

Slip the shuttle thread back at the first ring and 
fasten it by putting the shuttle through the loop so 
as to bring these five rings close to the one with the 
eleven picots, without turning repeat the bar. and 
join in the fourth picot from the left in the ring with 
the eleven picots. Repeat the bar and join in the 
eighth picot of same ring, repeat the bar, join in the 
center picot of next bar at the right. Repeat the 
bar and join in the first picot of the next bar. Re- 
peat the bar, join in the fifth picot of the same bar. 
Repeat the bar, join in the center picot of the next 
bar, repeat the bar and join in the picot of the next 



Page 11 



ring of motif No. 2; another bar, join in the third 
picot of the next ring; another bar, join in the middle 
of the five picots; another bar, join in the same place 
in the next ring; another bar, join in the last picot of 
the bar in motif; another bar joined in the center 
picot of the bar in motif; another bar joined between 
the two bars, another bar joined in the long picot be- 
tween the next two rings in motif; another bar joined 
in the same place between the two rings of the motif; 
another bar joined in the third picot of the three in 
the next ring of motif; another bar joined in the third 
picot of the next ring in motif; another bar joined in 
the first picot of the next motif No. 1; another bar 
joined in the center picot of the next bar of the motif; 
another bar joined in the first picot of the next bar in 
the motif, another bar joined in the last picot of the 
same bar, repeat the bar. 

Turn, with the shuttle thread, five knots, join in 
the fourth picot of bar, five knots, join in the picot 
of ring, five knots, close. Turn and with the spool 
thread repeat the bar, join in the third picot of ring. 
Join the next bar in the same place in the next ring. 
Repeat the bar, join in the first picot of bar of 
the next motif No. 2. Repeat the bar, join fourth picot 
of same bar, repeat the bar, join in the first picot of the 
next bar of motif. Repeat the bar, join in the last 
picot of the same motif. Repeat the bar, join in the 
long picot of the next motif. Repeat the bar, join in 
the third picot of ring. Repeat the bar, join in the 
third picot of the next ring. Repeat the bar. Join 
in the first picot of the next bar. Repeat the bar. 



Turn and with the shuttle thread, seven knots, join in 
the picot of motif at the left, five knots, join in the 
one picot left on the bar, seven knots, close. Turn and 
with the spool thread, repeat the bar, join in the 
center picot of next bar. Repeat the bar, join in the 
center picot of next bar. Repeat the bar, join in the 
last picot of the same bar. Repeat the bar, join in 
the long picot between the next two rings. Repeat 
the bar, join in the center picot of the next bar. 
This brings you to the middle of the back of the 
yoke. 

Next you will crochet a row of double trebles to 
run the ribbon through. The thread over the needle 
twice, taking off two stitches at a time, two chair, 
stitches between each treble. 

Edge for top of night-goTvn yoke 

THE edge of the top is worked thus: Slip the 
shuttle thread through one of the chain stitches, 
and tie it so that it will not open. It is wise to just 
sew the end and then cut the rest of the end off, that 
is, after you have tied the thread to the chain stitch. 
Five knots, one picot, five knots, three picots with 
one knot between each picot, five knots, one picot, 
five knots, close. With the crochet hook draw the 
thread through the second crochet stitch and slip the 
shuttle through to fasten it. Then slip the thread 
through the next second crochet stitch before you 
begin the next ring. Do not make the rings so close 
that they will draw up the yoke; it will make the 
yoke considerably smaller if you do. 



Border for Centerpiece and Doilies 




This forget-me-not edge is exceptionally effective as a finish 

for centerpieces and doilies of fine round-thread linen. It 

can be carried out in heavy, white or linen colored thread 

for icse on towels, runners and lunch cloths. 



Forget-me-not Edge 

TWO threads. With the shuttle thread make seven 
knots, one picot, seven knots, close. With the 
spool thread, five picots, with one knot between each 
picot. With the shuttle, seven knots, join in picot 
of ring, seven knots, close. With the spool thread, 
holding work down, two picots with one knot between 
each picot, holding the work in the same position and 
with the shuttle thread, three picots, with three knots 
between each picot, close. Three knots, join to picot 
in ring, five knots, one picot, five knots, one picot, 
three knots, close. Three knots, join in picot, three 
knots, one picot, three knots, one picot, three knots, 
close. 

With the spool thread, two picots, with one knot 
between each picot. Turn, seven knots, join between 
the two rings where there is already a join, seven 
knots, close. Turn, with the spool thread, five picots 
with one knot between each picot. Turn, with the 
shuttle, seven knots, join in the same place with the 



other three rings, seven knots, close. Holding the 
work in same position, five picots, with one knot be- 
tween each picot. With work in same position, make 
seven knots, one picot, seven knots. Turn, with 
spool thread, two picots, with one knot between each 
picot, join in center picot of bar, two picots with one 
knot between each picot. Turn, with shuttle, seven 
knots, join at the three rings, seven knots, close. 
Without changing position, make the bar with five 
picots, and then the ring with seven knots, one picot, 
seven knots, and thus proceed to vi'ork as directed. 

If you wish to sew the tatting on a centerpiece 
that is round, crochet five in chain, with a single 
crochet in the center picot of bar at top, five 
chains, with the thread over the needle twice, work 
between the two rings (or at the picot part of the 
four rings), and crocheting two stitches at a time, 
thus making a double treble. This makes the work 
even. If you want the work to be straight, crochet 
seven In chain and proceed in the manner. 



Page IS 



Head — A ring formed by 
making four double linots, 
onepicot, four double Itnots, 
one picot, four double knots, 
close ring. 

Body — Working closely 
up to the first ring, make 
nine double knots, one picot, 
nine double knots, close. 

Abdomen of butterfly 
must be left until wings 
are started. 

Wings — Make a large 
ring of three double knots; 
make eleven long picots 
with one double knot be- 
tween each; make thirty 
double knots. Close ring 

very carefully, lest the thread holding all these 
stitches should break. 

Make the second ring for the foundation of the left 
wing in the same manner, without breaking the 
thread. 

Before starting around the wings again for the 
next row, pass the thread over the body of the but- 
terfly and through the wing-foundations, pulling 
thread firmly to fasten body and wings tightly to- 
gether. Be careful not to break thread, however, 
until you have fastened body and wings thoroughly, 
as upon the firmness of this fastening depends the 
strength of the butterfly. 

Abdomen — Begin a ring with four double knots, 
one picot, two double knots, one picot, two double 
knots, one picot, two double knots; fasten in nearest 
long picot of right wing of butterfly; two double knots, 
fasten in picot at end of body; two double knots, 
fasten in long picot of left wing of butterfly; two 
double knots, one picot, two double knots, one picot, 
two double knots, one picot, four double knots, close. 
Fasten off thread. 

2nd row around right wing: Make a tiny ring of 
two double knots, catch into picot of abdomen which 
is nearest to the body; one double knot, catch into 
the same long picot to which the abdomen is fastened; 
one double knot, catch into next long picot; two 
double knots, close ring. 

Make a ring of two double knots, catch into next 
two long picots with a single knot; two double knots, 
one picot. two double knots, close ring. 

Pass the thread under the last ring forward, catch- 
ing it in the second or last of the two long picots to 
which the last small ring was fastened. 

Make a ring like last small ring, catching it to the 
next long picot. Pass thread under ring and catch 
into the last of these long picots mentioned above. 

Make a ring of four double knots, catch into next 
two long picots, three double knots, one picot, four 
double knots, close ring. Pass thread under ring, 
catching into last of these two long picots. 

Make a ring of four double knots, catch into one 
long picot, four double knots, one picot. four double 
knots, close ring. Pass thread under ring, fasten 
into long picot. 

Make the last ring with four double knots, catch 
into the last two long picots, four double knots, one 
picot, four double knots, close ring. Pass the thread 
under ring, fasten securely to last long picot, and 
break. 

3rd row: With two threads, begin by fastening 
extra thread under first small ring of last row. close 
to abdomen of butterfly. Make four double knots 
over this thread, catch into adjoining picot of abdo- 




The butterfly medallions may be repeated to form yokes 
or inserts for night-gowns, combination garments and 
neckwear; also bed-room linens, towels, candle-shades, 
pin-cushion covers and other novelties. The size of the 
thread determines the size of the medallion. These would 
be beautiful repeated to form the edge for a centerpiece 



men; two double knots, one 
picot, three double knots, 
catch into picot of second 
small ring of preceding row. 
Make two double knots, one 
picot, one double knot, one 
picot, one double knot, one 
picot, three double knots, 
catch into picot of next 
small ring; three double 
knots, catch into last picot 
of this first loop; one double 
knot, one picot, two double 
knots, one picot, one double 
knot, onepicot; three double 
knots, catch into picot of 
next small ring. The third 
loop ismadewithfourdouble 
knots, catch thread into last picot of preceding loop; 
one double knot, one picot, one double knot, one picot, 
one double knot, one picot; four double knots, catch 
thread into picot of next ring. Last loop is made with 
five double knots, catch thread into picot of preceding 
loop; * two double knots, one picot; repeat from * twice 
more. Five double knots, catch into picot of last small 
ring of preceding row. Fasten extra thread very care- 
fully at this point, to insure against its slipping and 
the consequent loss of this last loop; cut close to knot. 
4th row: Continue with bobbin thread as follows: 
Draw thread through nearest picot of last loop, make 
a fastening stitch, leaving the thread long enough to 
reach without pulling, from the point where loops end 
and this last row commences. Make a similar fasten- 
stitch in each picot of this loop. Carry thread, with- 
out pulling, along the edge of all the loops, until you 
reach the picot in the loop nearest the abdomen. 

5th row: Make a ring of four double knots, catch 
in last picot of abdomen, four double knots, close. 
Another ring of four double knots, catch into thread 
joining last two picots of adjoining loop; two double 
knots, one picot, two double knots, close. Pass thread 
under this ring to the nearest picot (one of the two 
joined by thread into which this ring is fastened). 
Make another ring of four double knots, catch into 
nearest picot of next loop, two double knots, one 
picot, four double knots, close. Fasten off thread 
securely; break thread. 

6th row: Tie the bobbin thread and the extra 
thread to the extreme end of the abdomen of the 
butterfly (it makes it less bungling to use the bobbin 
thread by tying it around the abdomen, leaving a 
piece long enough to work with as an extra thread). 
Over extra thread make three double knots, one 
picot with one double knot between, three double 
knots; catch thread into picot of central small ring 
of preceding row. Make a second loop like this first 
one, fastening it to picot of last small ring of the 
preceding row. Tie the extra thread securely, but do 
not break it, as you will need it to make the outside 
loops on the other wing. 

The second wing is made exactly like the first one, 
but you must, of course, work in the other direction 
from the body of the butterfly. 

Antennse — Draw the bobbin thread through one of 
the picots of the head, for one of these, pulling it 
through until it is long enough to work over as an 
extra thread. Tie in a firm knot, so that it will 
not slip. 

Make seventeen double knots over this extra 
thread. Make a ring of seven double knots; close. 
Tie the two threads very firmly, and cut close to knot. 
The other antenna is made like the first. 



Page 13 




A Beautiful Collar of 
Tatting and Crochet 



Tatting medallions 





of any shape or size 



TO make this collar, a spool of medium crochet 
lace thread with a spool of No. 12 cotton are 
required ; a tatting shuttle, a patent steel crochet 
hook No. 11, and a collar pattern, cut in stiff paper. 

To make the tatting medallions 

FILL the shuttle, break the thread from the spool; 
measure eleven finger-lengths from the shuttle, 
do not cut it off, but let it hang down. Throw the 
shuttle thread over your left hand and work over it 
with shuttle, three double knots, one picot; three 
double knots, one picot, three double knots, one picot; 
three double knots, draw it up gently, tight and close. 
Throw the loose piece over the left hand, hold it be- 
tween the thumb and first finger, close to the wheel. 
With shuttle thread work over the piece around your 
hand, three double knots, one picot, two double knots, 
picot, two double knots, picot, two double knots, picot, 
two double knots, picot, three double knots; there 
are five picots here. Turn work over. With shuttle 
thread work three double knots, join it (using the 
crochet hook for the purpose) through third picot of 
first tiny wheel; three double knots, picot, three dou- 
ble knots, picot, three double knots; draw it up as 
before. Go on the same way until you come to the 
eighth wheel, which is the last. Here you make 
three double knots, join through third picot of seventh 
wheel; three double knots, one picot; three double 
knots; join through first picot of first wheel; three 
double knots; draw up close; make one more outside 
piece, tie the threads in a tight knot, cut off close and 
sew on the wrong side securely, so it will be sure not 
to come undone when laundered. 

The medallions are joined where they fit best on 
the pattern. Make the medallion up to the sixth in- 
side wheel; with outside thread make your two picots, 
two double knots; join through third picot; finish this 
like the others. Make the seventh wheel, then your 
two outside picots; join and finish same as the other 
medallion. 

To make the large crochet roses 

First round: Chain seven, join with slip-stitch 
through third of chain; chain six; into this space work 
five trebles, with two chain between; chain two, join 
with slip-stitch through third stitch of chain. 



Second round: Into each hole work one single, 
four doubles, one single. 

Third round: Chain four, hook it through last 
single of first shell; repeat around the row. 

Fourth round: Into each hole work one single, five 
doubles, one single. 

Fifth round: Chain five, hook it through last 
single of first shell in previous row. 

Sixth round: Into each hole put one single, seven 
doubles, one single. 

Seventh round: Like fifth, only add one stitch to 
each chain. 

Eighth round: Into each hole, one singe, nine 
doubles, one single. 

Ninth round: Like fifth, adding two stitches to 
each chain. 

Tenth round: Into each hole work one single, 
eleven doubles, one single; cut off thread about nine 
inches long, draw it through last loop, and use this 
piece for sewing the roses together. 

The second size roses are the same, only leave off 
the tenth and ninth rounds. For the third size, make 
five petals instead of six; widen to the seventh round; 
the tiny ones are only four rounds, five petals. 

The illustrations showing two tatting medallions 
and a large rose will aid in following the instructions. 

To make the collar 

JOIN two medallions. Now make part of another, 
place all on the paper pattern, and join the un- 
finished medallion so it will fit and lie flat; continue 
this way along the outer edge, and when you have 
enough made to go around, baste them on the paper 
pattern. 

Sew the roses in place, face down; make another 
row of medallions, fitting it on the paper as you 
work. Join it to the two front wheels each side 
the collar; baste it, then sew it to the roses; be- 
tween the roses make simple fagot stitch with the 
crochet cotton. A row of crocheted edging finishes 
the neck. 

Press the collar gently on the wrong side, with a 
warm iron, while still on the paper; rip it off care- 
fully. Dampen collar, place over Turkish toweling, 
then press on the wrong side, with a moderately hot 
iron, until dry. 



Page H 




Dainty yokes and edgings for little girls' dresses, babies' 

dresses and narrow yokes for underwear, as well as edge 

for dining-room linens, can be developed from this border, 

which may be used as insertion or edging 



Clover Leaf Edge 

TWO threads. Begin with the shuttle thread, six 
knots, one picot, six knots, five picots with two 
knots between each picot, six knots, one picot, six 
knots, close. Second leaf: six knots, join in the sin- 
gle picot opposite, six knots, five picots with two 
knots between each picot, six knots, one picot, six 
knots, close. Make another like this. When finished 
take a crochet hook and draw the shuttle thread 
through the space between the first and second leaf 
and fasten as closely together as possible. Just pull 
the shuttle thread and you will get the leaf as close 
as is needed. Now take the spool thread, eight 
knots, one picot, eight knots, three picots with two 
knots between, eight knots, one picot, eight knots. 
Join in the middle picot of opposite leaf, eight knots, 
one picot, eight knots. With the shuttle, five knots, 
join in the first of the five picots of the center clover 
leaf, five knots, one picot, five knots, close. With 
the spool thread, five knots. Now make another leaf 
the same as the first three leaves which form the 
clover, making sure that you join at the proper place. 
Turn so that this last clover points toward you, and 
with the spool thread make five knots. Turn the 
clover from you and with the shuttle, five knots, join 
in the single picot, five knots, one picot, five knots, 



close. Turn the work and with the spool thread, 
eight knots, join opposite in the corresponding bar, 
eight knots and join in the center picot of the side 
leaf of clover, eight knots. Join in the picot opposite 
bar to the right of the three picots of the same bar, 
eight knots, three picots with two knots between, 
eight knots, one picot, eight knots. Turn, with the 
shuttle, make six knots, one picot, six knots, two 
picots with two knots between. Join in picot at the 
opposite bar, two picots with two knots between, six 
knots, one picot, six knots, close. Six knots, join, 
six knots, join in the first of the five picots, in the 
leaf. Make four more picots with two knots between, 
six knots, one picot, six knots, close. Six knots, 
join, in the picot of the second leaf, six knots, five 
picots with two knots between, six knots, one picot, 
six knots, close. Now join the three leaves so that 
they are close together. Turn and with the spool 
thread, eight knots, join in the opposite picot, and 
proceed with the work as directed. 

No. 60 crochet cotton may be used for in- 
fants' yokes, and No. 30 for underwear. Even 
coarser thread may be used. The edge is very 
durable, made of linen thread. Luncheon sets fin- 
ished with this edge, made of coarse thread, are 
most satisfactory and attractive. 



Forget-me-not Insertion or Yoke 

TWO threads. With the shuttle thread, 
seven knots, one picot, seven knots, 
close. With the spool thread, begin with 
the knot, make seven picots with one 
knot between each picot. With the 
shuttle, seven knots, join in picot of ring, 
seven knots, close. Make seven knots, 
one picot, seven knots, close. With 
the spool thread, holding the rings 
toward you, repeat the bar. Turn, and 
repeat the two rings (see narrow 
edge). 

The width of the lace depends on the 
number of bars and double rings you 
start your work with. Finish with a 
bar when you have obtained the width 
you want. Turn the work with the 
rings pointing up. With the shuttle, 
repeat the ring, joining in the picot. 
Turn, and repeat the bar, holding the 
work toward you. Turn, with the 
shuttle, repeat the ring and join in the 
same place as the previous ring. Turn, 
and rfepeat the bar with the spool 
thread. Turn and repeat the ring and 
join in the same place. Repeat the ring and join 
between the next two rings. Turn and repeat the 
bar. Turn and repeat the ring, joining in the same 




A four-leaf clover design that 
can be used fur medallions, in- 
sertion or edge on neckivear 
and babies' garments, and may 
be adapted to a yoke for night- 
gowns or infants' dresses 



place as before. Repeat the ring and 
join in the next two rings. Turn and 
repeat the bar and the rings until you 
come to the top of your work, finishing 
with the forget-me-not. Turn the work 
down and with the spool thread, repeat 
the bar. Holding the work in same po- 
sition, repeat the ring. 

Now lay the work over the fingers, 
with the last made ring pointing to 
the right, and with the spool thread, 
beginning with the knot, make three 
picots, joining in the center of the 
seven picots previously made, three 
picots. With the shuttle and turning 
the work down, repeat the ring and 
join in the picot of ring. Repeat the 
ring with the one picot. Repeat the 
bar, joining in the center of the seven 
picots. Proceed until you come to the 
top. This brings your work to the 
point shown in the illustration. 

No. 60 crochet cotton should be used 
for underwear and house linens; No. 100 
for handkerchiefs and infants' gar- 
ments. This design may be repeated to 
any width and is very pretty for square yokes. Made 
of heavy Mnen or ecru thread it will be a decorative fin- 
ish for dining-room covers of natural colored linen. 



Page 15 



Six-pointed motif 

TWO threads. With the shuttle make 
a ring of six picots with one l<not 
between, close. Join the thread in the 
first picot, eight knots and one picot. 
Join in the second picot. Proceed to make 
eight knots and one picot until you come 
to the starting point and then join in the 
first picot. With a crochet hook put the 
end of the spool thread through this same 
picot. 

A good way to fasten the thread is to 
tie a knot at the end of the inserted 
thread and cut the end ofl', then tie an- 
other time around the knot end so that the thread will 
easily slip through when you pull the thread close to the 
picot to which you have inserted the spool thread. 
Draw the spool thread tightly and close to the picot. 

With the shuttle, make five knots, one picot, five 
knots, close. With the spool thread, make three 
knots, one picot, three knots, holding the ring from 
you so that the picot will lie toward the eight knots 
of the preceding row, then three knots. Turn the 
work with the motif toward you and proceed to make 
another ring like the first. Join in the picot, repeat 
this little design to the starting point. Join in the 
first picot. With the spool thread, seven knots, one 




Motif for medallion or 

edging^ made with two 

threads 



picot, seven knots, and join in the closed 
picot between the two rings made in the 
preceding row. With the shuttle, five 
knots, one picot, five knots, three picots 
without making a knot between (thus: 
make the picot which is made with the first 
stitch of the knot, and then make the 
second stitch, one picot. Now just repeat 
twice more and you will have the three 
picots without a knot between) , five knots 
and close. Five knots, one picot, five 
knots, close. Put the shuttle thread back 
around the three rings and make a loop, 
running the shuttle through, so as to fasten 
the thread around the three rings to keep them close 
together. Try, while working, to keep your work as 
flat as possible; it will not puzzle you as much as when 
you let your work go. Now make seven knots, one 
picot and seven knots. Now you will just repeat 
this design and you will have the motif complete. 
(It takes about an hour to make this motif.) 

These motifs can be used in various ways — joined 
as insertion, or joined as an edge for centerpieces, 
they are really very handsome when made with coarse 
thread, and they will outwear three linens. When 
made with fine lace thread they are beautiful for 
trimming the finest garments. 



Simple round tatting wheel 

TWO threads. Make a ring with nine 
large picots, with three knots be- 
tween. Join the spool thread to the first 
picot. To make the small rings: five 
knots, one picot, five knots, close. Join 
in the next picot of the large ring, pro- 
ceed to make these rings until you have 
worked to the first of the small rings. 
Join the shuttle thread in the first picot 
under the first ring, put the spool thread 
in this same place and tie carefully. Hold 




Simple round tatting 
wheel 



the motif from you and with the spool 
thread make five knots, one picot, and 
five more knots. Join the shuttle thread 
to the picot of the little ring (preceding 
row). Now hold the motif toward you 
and work a ring, five knots, one picot, five 
knots and three picots with one knot be- 
tween each picot; five knots, one picot, 
five knots, close ring. Proceed, making 
the bars and rings all the way around, 
then fasten your two threads carefully 
and cut them off. 




Showing how any wheels may be arranged on the linen to finish a handsome center- 
piece. Doilies rnay be -made to match 



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"•ST. AUGUSTINE ' ,i 

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